Don’t flake on these new Edinburgh coffee shops and bakeries
There’s only one thing better than drinking fantastic coffee. Drinking fantastic coffee while eating a fresh, buttery croissant. Local lass Alice Florence Orr sorts the sourdoughs from the sour-don’ts in Barley’s round-up of the most exciting new cafes and bakeries in the Scottish capital
There was a time when it was possible to be a hipster in Edinburgh. This was around five years ago, when “orange wine” was just a mimosa and “funky flavour notes” could only be found in a bottle of Buckfast. No more. I’m not claiming there’s a direct connection between the sudden influx of artisan bakeries and Edinburgh’s rising house prices. However, it does seem suspicious that I frequent them at least once a week yet find myself living in my parent's spare bedroom. Again.
Simply put, there’s a new restaurant or wine bar opening every month. And then there’s the breakfast-on-the-go options.
Take one look at the queue outside Lannan, a brand new opening on Hamilton Place, and you’ll realise that pastry fever has taken over this city.
Fancy spending £12.50 on a coffee and two cardamom buns? You’re spoiled for choice. But which places are really worth your money?
Over the summer, I recruited my croissant-loving friends to find out…
Beatnik on Brougham Place — a place for serious coffee lovers
Beatnik
Beatnik opened on Brougham Place with a clear mission: they take coffee seriously. With several beans on rotation on any given day, Beatnik will appeal to fans of Lowdown and Brew Lab. The team have taken over the space vacated by Machina Espresso and make much better use of the hole-in-the-wall vibe. Turned out in grey concrete and typography to die for, the space is airy and accessible without being generic. Beatnik hosts a house roast for six months, rotating guest blends every two to three weeks. It keeps things interesting for the regulars. With minimal seating and no laptops allowed, this coffee shop is a showcase for good coffee. Don’t be put off by their Brooklyn-style bean culture, Beatnik is one of the friendliest coffee shops around. Although it's often busy, I’ve never failed to get a seat.
There is one small downside: the sweet treats are decent, but nothing special. This would normally knock a whole star off, but as my friend pointed out, they have Le Labo soap in the bathroom.
“Is that why you come here every weekend?” I asked.
He gave me the side eye. “Absolutely not.”
Barley’s buy: Try the featured guest filter (£3.50-£5)
2 Brougham Pl, Edinburgh EH3 9HW
Ante — bringing ‘cosy Copenhagen’ vibes to Edinburgh
Ante
Ante is a new café located under the stairs from its companion, Spry. Just like the wine bar above, Ante is invested in bringing Scandi-inspired flavours to Haddington Place by using Scottish produce in interesting ways. It’s all very New Nordic. Ante has plenty of ambition. They serve fresh cakes and pastries, as well as a limited brunch menu featuring plenty of foraged mushrooms. In the grinder is La Cabera, a Danish roastery that’s become popular in recent years. It produces an even flavour, ideal for a flat white. We tried a few pastries, including a flakey number with ricotta and broad beans. Overall, the flavour is slightly lacking. Like Spry’s menu when it first opened, the offerings are a couple of tweaks away from being divine.
Where Spry’s space is open and echoey, Ante is the opposite. If you seek “cosy Copenhagen”, as so many of us seem to these days, this is your new coffee spot.
Barley’s buy: Flat white (£3.20), Strawberry Butter Cake (£2) or Croissant Bun (£4.50)
1b Haddington Pl, Edinburgh EH7 4AE
Lannan — worth braving the long queues for
Lannan
You’ve probably seen photographs of the line outside of this hip new bakery in Stockbridge. It reminded me of that viral photo of the traffic jam at the top of Everest. In this case, the summit was pastry; our challenge, waiting in line for an hour. Is Lannan worth it? As a self-appointed croissant aficionado, I can safely say these are some of the best. Crispy. Buttery. They’ve nailed the balance between sweet and savoury. They serve Obadiah coffee alongside their confections, a blend I would guess is unwashed and fermented. It has a delightfully bitter, almost sour tang, which pairs perfectly with the dark chocolate they use in their pain au chocolat. You can tell there is a coherent vision running through their creations.
I’ve been avoiding Stockbridge more and more because I am neither English nor a “yummy mummy”. But I would return for another Lannan pastry. If you’re in a rush, Twelve Triangles is a great alternative, but there’s something deliciously masochistic about standing for hours for a bun. Maybe next time I’ll opt for a lemon tart with fresh meringue or one of their decadent-looking sandwiches.
Barley’s buy: Pain au chocolat, long black (£3)
29-35 Hamilton Pl, Edinburgh EH3 5BA
Hobz — pastry paradise
Hobz Bakery
This bakery’s motto is “In flour and butter we trust”. At first bite, it’s impossible to disagree. Located at the newly hip end of Leith Walk, Hobz Bakery is the place for pastry aficionados. With a window filled with flaky, buttery treats, the young owner should be applauded for opening a bakery that has fast become a neighbourhood favourite. And he’s only twenty-five! Matthew Mallia opened Hobz after a successful stint at the Leith Walk Police Box, which is a testament to not only his talent but also the transition of Leith from kooky community to Londonite colony. But hey, why complain? We all love laminated dough.
At Hobz, the bakers experiment with different varieties of grain, including Einkorn and freshly milled Balcaskie Grain from Scotland the Bread. The croissants are everything you could want: not too sweet, with a crispy finish. The newly re-imagined cinnamon buns are to die for and worth the small queue you’ll likely find outside. Make sure to take home a loaf of bread, while you’re at it. Elevating any homemade brunch recipe, they’re perfect for the freezer.
Barley’s buy: A batch brew (£3.20) and a cinnamon bun to share (£4.20)
106 Leith Walk, Edinburgh EH6 5DT
Alice Florence Orr is a writer and regular
contributor to Barley
