Making a strong Impression
Master of ceremonies: Johnson MD Alexander Johnson
Johnson Reserve’s new Renoir Edition single malt whisky is a work of art, both inside the bottle and on it. Gordon Thomson gets an exclusive taste and hears MD Alexander Johnson explain his masterful vision
In an ornate room on the top floor of one of London’s grandest private members’ clubs, a fittingly luxurious whisky is being launched to the world. We’ve assembled for lunch amid high-ceilingned splendour, distressed walls of pale pink, patterned upholstered chairs, gilded mirrors and an Art Deco bar. And we’re about to taste something special. Before that, there will be exceptional food and wine. Faultless service. Buzzy conversation. Many of those seated around the vast, beautifully laid mahogany dining table are successful writers, artists and fashion designers. But they’re all aware there’s one star in the room. And it’s sat not at the table, but placed on it, shining with promise and intent.
It’s not by chance that the finer details of the venue chime so perfectly with the aesthetic and character of the whisky being poured from that starry bottle (or rather bottles) in front of us. It’s produced by Johnson Reserve and its name is The Masters Series: Renoir Edition. The art is in the glass and on the label. But it’s also on those vibrantly daubed walls behind us — bold ceramics, decadent paintings, gorgeous vintage posters and portraits of dogs, kilted men and elegantly attired children. It’s a clever and stylish coming together.
Let’s start with that eye-catching label design, which sets the tone for the spirit that swirls within.
Each numbered bottle of this single malt (there are but 350) features a rare imprint of Renoir’s Mère Ataillant. Created in 1886 by the celebrated Impressionist painter using charcoal and white chalk, it’s a tender, intimate depiction of a mother cradling a baby at her breast. It is cherished by the Johnson family, who own the original, and was the inspiration for this marriage between the worlds of fine art and masterful whisky making.
The Renoir is in fact one of three in Johnson Reserve’s new 2024 collection. The others, which we also sample today, are The Voyager and Johnson Reserve Family Reserve 2022. We’ll come back to those in a bit.
‘The art is in the glass and on the label and the walls – bold ceramics, decadent paintings, gorgeous vintage posters. It’s a clever and stylish coming together’
We know the Renoir looks great, but what does it taste like and what’s it provenance?
“It’s from an undisclosed distillery renowned for its proven rarity and quality,” says Rob Yeatman, the erudite Head of Brand Advocacy at Johnson, affably deflecting the question from across the table during an informal introduction to the tasting. Can he elaborate? “Well, the whisky was finished in a sequence of multiple casks from France which previously gave life to Cognac, Sauvignon Blanc and Grand Cru, which makes it, I think, a very delicate and elegant single malt, with come hither notes of orange blossom cake and pistachio cream which subtly unfurls with every sip.”
Liquid decadence: Johnson's bottles are finished in a range of multiple casks from France, which previously held Cognac, Sauvignon Blanc and Grand Cru
He’s not wrong. It’s a teasing show-stopper alright, packed with complex fruity flavours and featuring an intensely smooth and long finish. My money would be on it being a Premier League Speysider originally, though I could be wrong — that high-end wine and Cognac maturation plays havoc with the palate and nose, albeit in an immensely satisfying way.
“Our goal is to highlight the unique flavours imparted by different woods through advanced cask maturation and finishing techniques, which is why we have chosen not to include an age statement on the bottle,” explains Yeatman, emphasising that almost artisanal end process that its so central to the Johnson ethos.
Star of the show: The Masters Series: Renoir Edition
Based out of Glenfarg, a pretty, vibrant village in the Ochil Hills of Perth and Kinross, Johnson is a small but experienced whisky-making family business, with a deep specialism in maturation and innovative finishing strategies.
While respectful and proud of the Scottish heritage of their products, MD Alexander Johnson says the team are on a passionate search for new ways to expand and challenge the traditional world of Scotch whisky. It’s a meticulous, flavour-forward approach which involves transferring the spirit they’re working with between multiple casks, proving that complexity and flavour in whisky is not solely dependent on age.
‘It’s a very delicate and elegant single malt, with come hither notes of orange blossom cake and pistachio cream which subtly unfurls with every sip’
With invention comes scruinty. In this case from the beady-eyed guardians and gatekeepers of the industry, the Scotch Whisky Association, who understandably like to keep a close eye on any bottlers or makers attempting unusual things. It’s been a fruitful collaboration.
“We are incredibly grateful to [them] for their guidance and for generously giving their time and supporting this new approach towards advanced maturation and finishing strategies,” says Alex Johnson. “Throughout this process, we’ve made sure to respect the time-honoured traditions of whisky making, all in the relentless pursuit of exceptional flavour.”
The bottles in the collection are immensely appealing. Squat and sturdy. Refined but substantial. The chunky stopper is smooth to touch and pleasingly robust. You’d be delighted to have the Renoir in particular on show at home, though you may stop short of framing it. It’s for drinking. With the very good friends.
These days, there are a fair few ne’er-do-wells of suspect motivation inching into the arena of ‘exclusive’ Scotch whisky bottling, many of them lacking obvious credentials or the wherewithal to produce exciting or credible whiskies. Not Johnson. They’ve got the chops and the chutzpah to pull off this high-end, Haute-whisky enterprise with aplomb.
“Art,” said Renoir, “is about emotion. If art needs to be explained it is no longer art.” Well, that’s my excuse for not nailing the tasting notes. Want to know what this arty expression is all about? You’re going to have to find out for yourself.
Introducing the Johnson Reserve 2024 collection
Masters Series: Renoir Edition (from £3,500)
Wrapped in an authorised Renoir print and limited to just 350 bottles, The Masters Series: Renoir Edition is a true collector’s item. Selected from an undisclosed distillery renowned for its proven rarity and quality, the aged whisky is finished in a sequence of multiple casks from France which previously gave life to Cognac, Sauvignon Blanc and Grand Cru.
Johnson Reserve Family Reserve 2022 (RRP £800, 40% ABV)
A single malt whisky hailing from an undisclosed Highland distillery, drawn from a series of eight individual casks: two ex-Islay whisky casks, a Californian red wine, an Italian red wine, Cognac, Brandy, French virgin oak and Japanese Mizunara oak. Subtle notes of peat and woodsmoke, with elegant tannins from virgin French oak, fragrant notes from Mizunara, and an opulent finish redolent of fine red wine and Cognac.
The Voyager (RRP £175, 40% ABV)
A rich and elegant single malt. Whisky sourced from one of Scotland’s leading distilleries was matured in Japanese Mizunara oak and finished in French Cognac casks. Japanese Mizunara oak contributes sweet and heady aromatics, reminiscent of vanilla and incense. The Cognac cask lends rich and enticing notes of dried fruits, baking spices and brown sugar, leading into a finish that lingers long on the palate.
To obtain one of the limited edition Masters Series: Renoir Edition enquire at info@johnson-reserve.com. A ballot will be held for the chance to purchase one of these exclusive bottles, priced from £3,500. For more information: johnson-reserve.com
