Twelve Drams of Christmas
From Taiwan to the Isle of Arran, the Lake Disrict to Jutland, it’s the Barley guide to the best whisky to gift and drink this season and beyond. By Heather Storgaard
The most surprising gifts are often the ones that prompt the most joy. A few years ago, on a winter’s morning, a damp and inauspicious parcel arrived on our doorstep. Inside, entombed in crumpled paper, was a generous slab of tablet, that confectionary beloved of Scots, alongside a bottle of Glenfarclas. The rich, russet toned whisky went perfectly with the crumbly, soft and delectable tablet. It turned out that when we had given away a coffee machine to a neighbour earlier that year, it had made its way up to Speyside and ended up in the hands of a Glenfarclas employee. In the season of goodwill, he had more than returned the favour.
Whisky is the perfect Christmas present. A good bottle has a quiet, stately opulence and is the ideal thing to sip with friends in front of the fire after a festive dinner. Drink your whisky unhurriedly and it will see you into Burns Night celebrations and well beyond. It is, quite literally, the gift that keeps on giving. For this festive selection, I’ve chosen an eclectic and eye-catching mix from around the world, from the rare and, yes, admittedly expensive (well, it is Christmas), to more affordable bottles that will please the wallet and purse without sacrificing on flavour or distinctiveness. There are whiskies from the classic regions but I’ve also unearthed some beauties from exciting new regions. Whether you’re looking for something special to impress the die-hard whisky aficionado in your life or simply the perfect bottle to get someone started on their whisky journey, our Barley dozen aims to delight and inspire. Slainte!
For your Peat Fiend Friend: Caol Ila Distillers Edition 2022
Islay is the home of peaty whisky and the island’s distilleries offer everything from lightly peated, delicate releases to the most heavily smoked whisky in the world, Octomore. A vintage giant from a bygone era of distilling, commanding one of the island’s best spots, Caol Ila is a powerhouse operation, producing an immense amount of whisky, most of which goes to blends, which is a shame. Still, there’s plenty of liquid leftover for their superb single malts.
The Distillers Edition showcases Caol Ila’s character as determined by their own employees in a single malt. This 2022 beauty was finished in muscatel seasoned American oak casks, lending it a characteristically smoky palette that’s also deliciously sweet. Caol Ila was my whisky of last Christmas, one I drank happily sat by the wood burner during the cold snap. Make it one to have in your cabinet this year for festive drinking that packs a hugely satisfying punch.
2. For the Bourbon Buff: Eagle Rare 10 Year Old Buffalo Trace Whiskey
Getting hold of a bottle of premium bourbon can sometimes feel like undertaking a quest for lost treasure, albeit one where the chase yields some of the most colourfully named bottles out there (take a bow Stitzel Weller and Pappy Van Winkle). Luckily, the Eagle Rare 10 Year Old by Buffalo Trace is uncommon by name (and taste) only. It’s a classic bourbon with decent age and all the big notes you’d expect to find — vanilla, oak and spoonfuls of honey. It’s also resoundingly American, with the kind of frontier swagger you’d expect from a Kentucky whiskey that’s got an enormous eagle plastered on the front of the bottle.
Last summer, Manchester’s Project Halcyon Distillery and cocktail bar launched their fabulous Old Fashioned Drinks Trolly. Stocked with Buffalo Trace bourbons including Eagle Rare and an incredible array of syrups, I had my delicious Old Fashioned prepared at my table by the warm, knowledgeable staff. It was a great way to learn more about this exciting and ever-expanding category. At this time of year, the soothing maple, walnut or citrus fruits syrups and vanilla notes of Eagle Rare makes for the ideal boozy companion to a Christmas dessert.
3. For the Irish Adventurer: Skellig Triple Cask Single Pot Still
From lush, verdant rolling hills to untamed coastline, Ireland’s landscape is diverse and vast, much like its whiskey, which has undergone a serious transformation in the last few years. Perched right on the edge of Europe, where County Kerry’s craggy coastline meets the North Atlantic, Skellig distillery is housed in a former textile factory in Cahersiveen, converted with a focus on sustainability and preserving the Irish tradition of Single Pot Still distillation.
I discovered a selection of the finest expressions earlier this year down the coast from Skellig in Cork’s fabulous Shelbourne Bar whilst visiting the city’s first whiskey festival. I asked the well-informed staff to bring me a whiskey I had never heard off, and they presented a dram of Skellig. I was delighted. This whiskey has notes of dried fruits and apple, as well as that typically lighter texture of Irish whiskey, and is a great bottle to dazzle friends with.
4. For New Converts: Arran Malt Amarone Wine Finish
Uniquely straddling the Highlands and Lowlands, the Isle of Arran enjoys the liberty of setting its own path without the preconceptions that come with a traditional whisky region. The spirits produced here are clearly coastal in style but also light and non-peated. Partially because of this, it’s often my go-to when introducing whisky to the as yet unconverted. Releases are frequently floral, with orchard notes of green apples and pears. If your whisky-sceptic friend enjoys cider, suggest an Arran! And, if wine is more their thing, Arran’s Italian red wine finished whiskies bring together Italy and Scotland with panache. Here, the fruitiness of the whisky is even clearer, with notes of red fruits and honey. Wine casks are not for everyone, but I see them as an ideal introduction to whisky. Many of us, myself firmly included, started their whisky journey with some dusty, stolen peat-bomb of an Islay whisky from our dad’s or grandad’s top shelf. Inevitably, this is the antithesis to that experience.
5. For the One Who’s Tried It All: Thy Whisky No. 14 Danish Organic Single Malt Whisky
Thy distillery — Thy is pronounced a bit like the number two in English — in Northern Jutland lies about as far from the urban hustle and bustle of Copenhagen as it’s possible to get in the small Kingdom. However, their ideas and whiskies are intrinsically connected to the ethos of New Nordic cuisine made famous by the Danish capital.
The farm distillery is organic and single estate, which means they grow all of their own grains needed to make whisky, and even feed the byproducts back to their own herd of cows. When I visited earlier this year, I was struck by how local it all felt. There was no attempt at impersonating Scotland, just an honest Jutlandic farm using their quality produce to do really interesting things with whisky. My favourite release is the Thy Bøg (pronounced a bit like Buh, meaning beech — yes, this is also a lesson in the notoriously hard to pronounce Danish language!)
The distillery has smoked their home-grown barley with beech, the national tree of Denmark, giving a truly unique and authentic taste of the nation. Combined with the Sherry casks the whisky is aged in, the dram starts sweet and becomes smoky and slightly herbal. Is it for everyone? Undoubtedly not, particularly as the smoke is so different from what we are used to from peat. But if you have to buy whisky for an aficionado who thinks they’ve tried it all, give them this.
6. For the Luxury Lover: Fragrant Drops North British 30 Year Old
Have you ever arrived by train at Edinburgh Waverley’s station and wondered what the incredible smell was? Ovaltine, a Marmite-rich gravy, toasted popcorn, roast beef crisps — I’ve heard many vivid descriptions. It is certainly a pungent welcome home to residents. Love it or hate it, the malty, rich pong that blows through the west of the city from the grain distillery near Murrayfield is proof that whisky is not consigned only to the Highlands, and that Northern British Distillery (trading since 1885) is still producing its grain.
Unlike the more famous Single Malt, grain whisky mostly goes into blends. The malt you can smell stepping off the train will likely end up in a glass of Johnnie Walker or Famous Grouse. However, it’s possible to find some brilliant independent bottlings of North British Single Grain whisky, often offering incredibly good value for age and quality. Enter Fragrant Drops, an Edinburgh-based independent bottler launched in 2022 and already getting rave reviews. Their perfume-like bottles evoke an apothecary or perfumery, with a round body and decorative stopper and gothic illustrations (this one features a macabre skull) making it a classy addition to whisky shelves. Inside, the exceptional liquid does the talking — their take on North British is a sweet, fresh and versatile whisky. Drink it neat, or mix it to make a fruity cocktail.
7. For the Outdoor Drammer: The Wonders of Wood
Westland Single Malt (Garryana 6th Edition Whiskey)
The far North West corner of the USA is blessed with an abundance of wild forests and nature, and while Westland distillery is located slap bang in the city of Seattle, this young producer’s ethos is very much inspired by Washington State’s awe-inspiring outdoors. Westland’s Garrayana series taps into those epic surroundings, maturing its whiskey in barrels made from a local tree, the Garry Oak, that is often overlooked in a region of legendary pines, firs ands cedars. A native white oak, the Garry Oak is rarely farmed or harvested, so it’s a genuinely pioneering endeavour the distillers have embarked on. Joining this expedition will lead you to dark, rich whiskey unlike anything you would expect from across the pond. I have a bottle of their fourth release, which has notes that conjure the forest, with blueberries and wood featuring strongly. The ideal gift for someone who is up for a challenge in their whisky glass.
8. For the Travel Lover: Kavalan Podium
Asia is becoming known for its great whisky, with Japan lauded in particular. There, Suntory has been distilling whisky for a century, but travel a little further south and Taiwan is emerging as another whisky powerhouse in the region. Built in 2005 as the island nation’s very first distillery, Kavalan has won ‘Distillery of the Year’ at the prestigious San Francisco World Spirits Competition three times already in its less than two-decade history. Whisky ages differently in warmer climates than its traditional Celtic heartlands, meaning that younger Asian releases often taste more mature than you would expect from the age statements. Kavalan’s Podium is one of the distillery's longer running expressions, and is a beautifully rich but sweet whisky, with clear notes of vanilla, coconut and fruits. It pairs well with Thai, Chinese or Japanese food. Maybe give it a go with a leftover turkey Thai salad or Chinese food — after days of hearty eating, a light and restorative meal with a tot or two of this might be just thing to ease you into those liminal post-Christmas and pre-Hogmanay days.
9. For the Indie Kid: Lowrie’s Reserve Blended Scotch Whisky (Thompson Bros)
Thompson Bros are the darlings of the Scottish indie scene, with their bottlings arm and Dornoch distillery beloved among ardent whisky fans. It can be tough work getting your hands on one of their releases unless you’re willing to battle it out at auction with hoards of other thirsty devotees. Their blends, however, are easier to source, and well worth giving a go. They also offer a more affordable way to enjoy Thompson Bros’ arty attention to detail (note the lovely vintage poster feel of the label created for this bottle) and passionate pursuit of vintage style whisky.
Taste-wise, the Lowrie's Reserve contains plenty notes of caramel and spices, making it a rich but smooth whisky suitable for winter. Additionally, there are also hints of umami, courtesy of the inventive beer cask finish. Overall, this is a lovely, good value blend to share with friends.
10. For the Anglo Curious: The Lakes Whiskymaker’s Reserve No.7
Keeping the Scots on their toes and enticing some of the biggest names in distilling to cross south of the border, English whisky is booming and spoiling for a scrap with the kings of scotch. The days of a straight choice between Scotch or Irish are long gone. This Christmas, I recommend the Whiskymaker’s Reserve No.7 for a great expression of the English new wave. Their packaging is unashamedly high-end, with rich burgundy adorned with golden swirls giving a bold impression before you’ve even uncorked the bottle and poured your first dram.
That boldness is well placed. Serious whisky expertise has poured into the Lake District from the legendary Macallan mothership over the past few years so the Whiskymaker’s Reserve has the pedigree of makers who really knows their stuff.
This is a whisky for Sherry cask lovers, with all the big fruity flavours you would expect —red berries, orchard fruits and candied oranges, as well as rich notes of chocolate.
I enjoy these kind of whiskies taken neat, after dessert, although they could almost replace the sweet themselves.
11. For the cocktail lover: Laphroaig 10 Year Old
Peat fires are a timeworn element of Scottish country life and just the smell of them makes me sentimental for winters gone by. In my childhood, peat was the scent of family adventures, driving south from my home in Forres towards the Cairngorms in my dad’s draughty old Land Rover. The warming musky scent of our home fires would sneak in through every nook and crevice of that beloved, bashed-up jeep. I’m certain this memory is the source of my deep love for peaty whisky.
I really enjoy selecting peaty whisky for cocktails. It gives your drinks extra punch, even when paired with the sweeter mainstays of the Christmas drinks menu, like eggnog. With smoky notes that summon up open fires on cold winter days, but also a sweetness at the end, Laphroaig 10 Year Old is a classic for good reason — it’s bold, brash and utterly distinctive. A bottle will definitely be travelling home for Christmas with me this year to help spice up my bartending during that post-presents, pre-dinner afternoon lull. Try it in a Penicillin Cocktail for a modern twist on a hot toddy, or get inventive with other Christmas favourites. Neat, on the rocks, with a splash of water. However you fancy it, it’s unlikely to let you down.
12. For a Very Special Friend: Glenfiddich 26 year old Grande Couronne
One of Speyside’s grand masters, the first whisky is said to have flowed from Glendfiddich’s stills on Christmas Day 1887. So, what more fitting way could there be to complete our Christmas list. The 26 Year Old Grande Couronne is another visually stunning whisky, inspired by decadent French design with ornate decorative flourishes on both the box and the bottle. Inside, the beautiful liquid was matured for 24 years in American and European oak before being transferred to mature for two years more in French oak cognac casks. The result is an oaky, unapologetically rich whisky with a wild array of notes that include a delicious Tarte Tartin. Brand Ambassador Mark Thomson has presented the whisky with food pairings at events, served in wine glasses, which is a fittingly elegant way to enjoy this cross of Scottish and French luxury. If you wanted to really go all out, you could drink this alongside a fish dish or rich, creamy desert over the festive period. This whisky doesn’t call for an occasion but creates one, and although it’s the priciest on this list by some margin, it might just be worth it.
Heather Storgaard is a writer from Speyside who focuses on whisky, culture and travel
